It was probably wrapped and not paint, likely cheaply if stainless was still visible in the door seams. Tesla offers it as a factory option and they call it "color paint film".

The challenger/mustang/camaro pulled this off fairly well for a while. There have been others, like the Thunderbird, but they never sold well.

These days, if it's not a crossover it seems like no one will buy it. I am blissfully unaware of interesting looking old SUVs, but surely one is out there. Maybe the bronco qualifies? Too bad it's suffering from size and price inflation.

Ah, for some reason I thought the glass what was moving was the stationary side. I should have taken a better look at the photo. Thanks for the correction!

Largely agree with the others with one exception. Don't put adhesive inside the channel. It will make future removal basically impossible.

Cut whatever adhesive you can see with a razor, slide the glass out of the channel, clean the channel and glass well, and then reinstall. Run a bead of silicone around the seam. It will be more than enough to hold the glass in place. That's the same way stone countertops are installed - there usually isn't glue between the countertop and the cabinets. The silicone/caulk beads are enough to hold it in place.

Things to keep in mind:

• it's glass, so you'll want to avoid bumping it into things. Put down thick towels/blankets in your work area and wherever you want to put it down. Be very wary of dinging the bottom on the floor/ceiling
• wear PPE. At a minimum leather shoes/boots, thicker pants that aren't skin tight (no skinny jeans), long/heavy/baggy sleeves, leather work gloves, and safety glasses
• it's going to be somewhat heavy. You could measure the panel size and plug it into an online calculator for a decent number. I suggest buying heavy duty suction cups that come with vacuum pumps. These will make moving the glass around a lot easier and they're not that expensive

Good luck!

They did see it coming, this was the goal.

I would be barefoot all day if I could, so I buy "barefoot" style shoes. They're cut to actually fit your foot and have minimal/no cushions.

Brands to look for include groundies and xero shoes. Birkenstock also makes shoes. You can swap insoles if you're not into their sculpted bed and the shoes themselves are built like tanks.

ASA and ABS are warp prone and this is an 11" / ~275mm wide print that's equally tall 🤷

The build volume of my printer means lots of surface area for the acrylic enclosure, which in turn makes it hard for me to exceed a 50°C chamber temp, despite 4x bed fans.

The next print, with normal supports, pulled the bed off the magnetic build plate. Insulation eliminated warping and let me pull off the print.

I do agree that a "nicer" enclosure is the preferred method. I have zero issues with PETG at this size. I've never tried PLA on this printer, but it should be fine too.

I will second this, even though I also agreed with "build a Voron". My 2.4 is a massively capable printer, and has a lot of quality of life features like actual mechanical bed leveling, but odds are your first build will have some teething issues. My extruder motor didn't have a fully aeat wire terminal in its factory harness so it extruded inconsistently. Thankfully it was easy to find and fix. I've had a few wire breaks in my cable chains because I didn't leave enough slack in the runs. The build itself is also long, but I did find it to be straightforward. Vorons are also Vorons, so the modding is endless.

Printer as a tool? Prusa. Maybe also Voron, especially if you want print volume/raw speed/quality of life. Printer as a tinkering device? Voron. Ship of theseus as you upgrade your way to a better printer? Ender.

Haha, came here to say the same thing.

Rather than 4x monitors, how about bigger and higher resolution monitors? I have 2x 27" 1440 monitors. They're fine to read at 100% scaling, which gives me tons of space to put things. I often run four columns of windows side by side - two columns per monitor. Going back to 1080 in the office is a big downgrade. You could do a similar pattern with ultra wide and/or higher resolution.

Monitors with a built in KVM are tons cheaper in total, especially if you care about high refresh rates. I share my M27Qs and a mouse/keyboard between my personal computer and work laptop this way.

I'm not sure that I get the need for three laptops, but you do you.

It sounds like the design goals Nikon and Canon were using were similar, yes. On a crop body, it's great for capturing things far away. I used it for motorsports. It was also a good people lens, but at 110mm FF equivalent you had to have some space to use it.

Wish I’d had more ambition to get out this Summer, there’s been a LOT of sunspot activity that I’ve missed.

I can relate to this. Especially when it comes to reach and close focus, your gear can get in the way of the shot. I feel like a lot of this hobby is clearly identifying your use case (reach, close focus, speed, etc) and then weighing the lenses that satisfy that use case against their tradeoffs (size, weight, image quality).

Over in e-mount land, I have Sigma's 35mm f/1.4 (the old HSM version) and Sigma's newer 35mm f/2.0. The extra stop is nice, but I rarely need it and f/2.0 is half the length and weight. Guess which lens gets used more often.

Sometimes you find great deals, sometimes you find Chinese garbage. Luckily I never paid much for garbage.

The nice thing about buying used is you can usually sell it without much of a loss. I've been treating this as "longer term renting" gear to help me find what I want.

Looks pretty cool. The frame reminds me a bit of a piper. Is this home brew?

Agree on older gear being cheaper. I've taken many a great photo on my D40 ($50-75 on MPB) and D5300 ($225-325 on MPB). Depending on the focal length desired, there are solid used F-mount lenses around for fairly cheap as well. My go-to was the AF-S Nikkor 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G IF-ED VR, which is a FF lens, but it still isn't that heavy. I think I got mine used for $350 10 years ago and have to imagine the price has continued to come down. There's a lot of fast thrid and first party glass available cheap too.

Haha, our kids do go under our table at times but they know not to go under other people's tables.

I don't have much tolerance for absentee parenting either, especially if the kids wind up seeking attention from others, by say going under someone else's table, because they're not getting enough attention from their own parents.

As a parent of younger kids, we're sorry. We come armed with as many activities as possible and will take our kids outside if they're too excited until food gets to the table. That will help them focus on eating.

We very rarely went out to eat when they were toddlers due to fear of our kids bothering others and understand that our desire to experience some level of normalcy shouldn't come at the expense of others.

All that said, if the parents are trying to keep their kids occupied, please extend some grace. Being a parent can be extremely isolating and we're simply trying to pretend like we still get to do normal things once in a while.

Yes. I epoxy filled some voids in a wood top for a desk I made a few years back. I used frog tape (fancy masking tape) on the bottom and it worked fairly well. Some epoxy still escaped and some of the tape was a bit difficult to get off. Be sure you do this over something like waxed paper for easier cleanup.

Like you, I tinted my epoxy black.

I used disposable cups for measuring, measured by weight on a digital scale (don't forget to weigh an empty cup), and mixed with a popsicle stick. Pour on the top around the cracks. Don't go too nuts on the first pour and let it fully cure. It will work its way into the cracks if you're using a crack filler - that stuff is very thin. Why not go big on the first pour? It will minimize the mount of leakage you get on the backside.

I sanded the top down afterwards and finished as per usual. The fill is very low key, which is what I wanted.

Pic of the desk being used. Look for the black between the boards.

Get a hear rate monitor and do High Intensity Interval Training (HIIT). It's by far the fastest way to increase your stamina if you're untrained and even if you are trained it's a very effective means of increasing your stamina.

This is backed by science.

While significant improvements in endurance performance and corresponding physiological markers are evident following submaximal endurance training in sedentary and recreationally active groups, an additional increase in submaximal training (i.e. volume) in highly trained individuals does not appear to further enhance either endurance performance or associated physiological variables [e.g. peak oxygen uptake (V . O 2peak), oxidative enzyme activity]. It seems that, for athletes who are already trained, improvements in endurance performance can be achieved only through high-intensity interval training

It is generally believed that in sedentary (VO 2max <45 ml/kg/min) and recreationally active individ- uals (VO 2max ≈ 45 to 55 ml/kg/min), several years are required to increase VO 2max to that of the highly trained athlete (VO 2max > 60 ml/kg/min). [21,42] However, Hickson et al. [43] showed, in eight sedenyary and recreationally active individuals, that VO2max could be markedly increased (+44%; p < 0.05) after 10 weeks of high-intensity exercise training (alternating 40 minutes cycling intervals at VO 2max 1day, with 40 minutes high-intensity running the next, 6 d/wk

PrusaSlicer is a fork of Slic3r Bambu's slicer is a fork of PrusaSlicer Orca Slicer is a fork of Bambu's slicer and also pulls in ideas from super slicer (another PrusaSlicer fork).

In other words, they all share a common lineage. Each adds quality of life improvements over the fork, at least in theory. It's possible those quality of life improvements will make it back upstream to the thing that was forked.

As for specific examples, Orca Slicer has a somewhat different set of tuning parameters, some unique-to-it quality things like scarf seams, built in tuning prints (temp towers, EM multiplier, pressure advance, a test to find your max flow rate, etc) a revamped UI, etc. I haven't compared the two in a while, so it's possible that some of this has made its way upstream by now.

This is very cool!

How were you able to capture this image with such a nice perspective? Were you in an adjacent building, airborne (helicopter/dron), using a tilt shidt lens, something else?

TIL there's a slicer called Lychee Slicer.

Sounds like a hot mess. Are you looking for a alternative? If yes, provide info but my off the cuff recommendation for a FDM printer is Orca Slicer.