3DPrinting
www.printables.com
I've designed a 3D printable sharpening angle jig for your chisel and planer knife. Works with those cheap triangle shaped blade holders you can find almost anywhere for cheap. Check it out if you're got a 3D printer.
With Google's assault on Invidious leaving it inoperable, consider watching this video [with FreeTube](https://freetubeapp.io/), a nifty [open source](https://github.com/FreeTubeApp/FreeTube?tab=readme-ov-file) program that lets you watch youtube videos privately! Combined with [Libredirect](https://libredirect.github.io/index.html), which automatically opens youtube links in Freetube, it becomes really slick and effortless to use. For Mobile, consider giving [FluxTube](https://github.com/mu-fazil-vk/FluxTube/) a try.
www.printables.com
This one's a real reach. Mo' obsure, mo' better. I got annoyed by my BRS Replicant (clone) showing up with very swanky channel milled handles, but no latch. Yes, it came with a little ballistic nylon belt pouch and no, even I of all people am not a big enough nerd to actually wear it that way. So I made this, which is a little friction fit dingus you can print out of TPU that fits quite snugly over the bite handle and holds the knife shut, but you can slip it over the end of the safe handle with your pinky easily. 
theaviationist.com
> Senior Airman Devon Word, a conventional munitions crew chief from the U.S. Air Force’s 48th Munitions Squadron, solved a perennial ammunition handling issue faced by the 48th Fighter Wing at [RAF Lakenheath](https://theaviationist.com/2022/03/09/first-f-35-for-493fs/), U.K., which often saw 20 mm rounds jamming while moving from the replenisher table to the ammunition loader. The frequent jamming makes manual intervention necessary, with “15 minutes of troubleshooting per jam” required which “may also cause injury to the operator.” > In fiscal year 2023, according to the [press release](https://www.lakenheath.af.mil/News/Article-Display/Article/3913626/), there were 319 operations resulting in an average of 957 instances of jams using the replenisher table. These accounted for approximately 798 man-hours due to the need for at least four personnel during operations. > Word developed a specially designed 3D-printed insert that addressed the old design issue causing the stoppages – a gap between the rounds and the top of the replenisher table. The unit-level innovation could save the 48th FW and U.S. Air Force over 750 man-hours annually, the unit said. ... 
So I'm trying to get my printer to a point where i can pretty consistently turn out high quality prints, but I'm at a point now where i get results like this. These two prints are from the same batch, same print job, and I'm completely clueless on how to fix it. I have an ender 3 v2 with a bltouch, I've adjusted the eccentric nuts, tightened the belts until the tips of my thumb and index finger couldn't tighten them any further, bed is level, using hatchbox pla. I know i can do ironing to fix the cosmetic problem, but I'd prefer to fix the root issue if possible.
I printed [this model](https://www.printables.com/model/620663-halloween-skull-bowl) on my Anycubic Kobra 2 in white PLA with 0.2mm layer height without supports, 3 walls and 7% adaptive cubic infill. Scaled it to 130% which was the largest I could fit on my bed (220x220), it took 8 hours to print. I had some issues with curved overhangs (especially around the cheek bones) but otherwise it printed in pretty decent quality, not the best but acceptable I would say. I would probably add organic supports for the cheekbones if I print another.
This is so neat.
Sorry for the potato quality picture. I really thought we were over this since I tune the vref, but I guess not. Do you guys have any idea why my info would look like this but all the walls on the printer are fine? I assume if it was a clog nozzle it would be inconsistent.
I can get one for a couple hundred. Is it worth it?
I'm curious about the creative ways people store spools. Seen some interesting ideas online. Share pictures if you can. Currently, I just have bins full of about a dozen spools each, but it isn't elegant or pretty. Need some new ideas.
I currently run a Voxelab Aquila I got for $120 three years ago. It largely replaced a Monoprice Mini, and the Aquila's done some surprisingly good work for me, but I may look for something new to put on the ol' birthday list. I would like a flat bed and some modern QoL improvements built in (he said, side-eyeing the BLTouch clone he never installed), but I'm still looking to play in the shallow-end, price-wise, and anyway Bambu just has "future enshittification" written all over it. I don't do anything time-sensitive, and I'm not afraid to put the whole thing together, so who are the current leaders in the value space? Recent machines from Creality?
 I'm actually not afraid of printing things larger than a few square inches on the bed.... Waited way too long for this. Tightening up the eccentric screws on the bed carriage so it doesn't wobble also helps.
Upgrades include: - Frame made of steel tube - E3D V6 clone and E3D titan clone - Noctua heatbreak fan - SKR Mini E3 V3 board - Raspberry Pi running Klipper - G10 build sheet - Bed insulation - ATX power supply - BLTouch Probably missed a few in the list
Also good for composting and making room in your recycling bin
Conference in outside Baltimore, MD.
The Super Notendo is now fully universal you just need to go through the effort of making 4 very, very small USB cables. I got some blank male and female ports and cut wires that were just long enough. It's cramped but it works! Both versions here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6771121
Thank you guys for pointing out the vref issue in my last post! I got it adjusted, and they were all fairly high so now they should be dialed in. While I was in there, I figured I should probably calibrate the extrusion steps as well. I’ve got a couple larger projects coming down the pipeline. But if I can go off of this cube, I think I’ll be in good shape.
Hi there! I'm looking into getting myself a good printer and I am wondering if I need to install some platform-specific drivers for them to run. I am running Debian 12 (GNU/Linux) and I am afraid that I must run some proprietary blob to connect to the printer. Could someone share their experience please? Even if you don't use Linux, your feedback would be very appreciated! (Also, while you are at it, please share some recommendations for printers, I don't really know where to go (>v<) Have about +-500€ )
1)You get thru downloading the thing since it advertises support for your printer, 2)Click on it to start using it right? 3)Right? 4)X out of the login window because you don't have a login and don't want one thanks. 5) Put the newly downloaded file in the trash bin. 6) Right click on the trash bin and "empty trash" 7-10) Relax for a bit since you don't have yet another data collecting app spying on you. But then post about how shitty the experience was. I can't believe anyone would actually create a login to use an app like this. Fuck that. I will just use shitty chitubox for now. Fuck^2, but at least I don't live in some shit server with all my 3D models stolen or my credit card or GPS or whatever the fuck they want to get from me. I'm sure chitubox is already doing it, but hey I don't need a password for that.
Lots of stringing but as I understand that's normal for TPU. Printed at 225⁰C on a 30⁰ bed, stock Ender 3 S1. 0 retraction, 0.93 flow, 35mm/s for most speeds
My (first?) 3d printer arrives tomorrow. I've been researching for months. One category I've been looking into is 3d modeling software. They all have drawbacks (too expensive, too hard to learn, save files in the cloud, etc) but the one that seems to fit the best is this apparently new one called Plasticity. I'd be willing to spend the $150 and then decide after a year if I want to re-up or just keep the current version. Or maybe I'd upgrade every few years or something. Anyway, there are a bunch of great reviews and tutorials but they're all over a year old, from when looks like the software was first released. I'm wondering if anyone here has experience with it and could advise if it's worth the $150.
Just got my Saturn 4 ultra, and it just doesn't seem to be very good. I'm toying with the idea of sending it back and paying the restocking fee, but that's a lot of money (and shipping fuel, etc, etc) to waste. Upgraded from a Mars 2 Pro and Mars 4, and I just can't believe how clunky the Saturn is. The build plate is too tall and too crammed into the case to make a decent tilting adapter, and a ton of resin gets wasted when removing parts. The touchscreen UI is almost as bad as the Mars 4, with horrible use of screen space (multiple prints with same name but different date at the end? Too bad, you can't see any part of the title past the first two words) and poorly designed features. I'd be interested to know if anyone has this printer or a similar one figured out, and is actually enjoying using it.
  My wife likes to sculpt model horses for fun and she wanted some base heads that she could attach and sculpt/paint over. So I made her some of these little guys.
The following is a 14 minute edutainment upload presenting the funicular hanging chain and other techniques of deriving optimal structural compression geometry using the opposite form in pure tension (sounds more complicated than it is), by Architecture and Design Professor Stewart Hicks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRv_syz2DAc This is a must watch as it shortcuts math and modeling in useful ways for design with minimal materials. I'm sharing as a 3d printing FreeCAD parts designer that likes to integrate all elements without printed supports in every possible case. The funicular draping chain idea is very much adjacent to how I think about integrating elements into a print design. I have designed with shells that integrate my structural elements, but this upload was an aha moment that takes my empirical design process to a new conceptual level. Modeling structural elements and knowing the math to apply can be challenging, but this kind of principal is a very useful shortcut. More info in article form: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Funicular_curve
The old "leather" was falling of my polaroid sx-70 camera. So I printed some new skins. I'm not sure about the colour yet. Thinking more about some kind of red or turquoise. But the test worked.
I went looking for a fun case to house a RP 5 for a RetroPie build but everything was either super minimal or just very unattractive to look at. This is my lovechild of a NES with a [Famicom Twin](https://www.museodelvideojuego.com/files/imgs/consolas/Twin-Famicom-Sharp-AN-500R-Roja.jpg) I designed this to be a bit bigger, take a standard 12mm switch, house an RP 5, and a convenient power button. I also added a standard 40mm exhaust fan hole. I designed this to fit a hat as well but I haven't tested it. I'll happily share the STLs if anyone is interested. I am working on posting to Thingiverse now. It looks like this should fit any model Pi but naturally YMMV.
I left the print over the weekend and I came back to spaghetti. It looks like something, caused the printer to push the print off its base like it was a poorly leveled bed? I still have to watch the camera footage to see what failed, but I hope you guys get a chuckle out of the spaghetti monster like I did.
 I have been trying for many hours now to print this circular model, but have been running into inconsistent extrusion and stringing. just before printing this, I successfully printed a set of Hextraction tiles, so I'm not really sure what the issue is. I also printed this model successfully in the past with the same settings. I am using a Sovol SV06 with stock firmware, and PLA with the hotend at 195° C. I also did a full calibration to see if that would fix the issue, and it did not.
Hi, I've tried to print a model plane for my father. It's this [model](https://3dlabprint.com/shop/piperj3cub/), using this [LW-PLA](https://3dlabprint.com/shop/polylight-1-0-cubyellow-lw-pla) right after purchase. As you can see in the image of this post, the print is going well until it reaches a certain layer, where the filament does not get deposited properly for the entire layer, only intermittently. The following layers then, of course, have the same problem and I get this failed print with these "frayed ends". Additional attempts failed the same way at a similar layer count. If someone has some experience with lightweight PLA (LW-PLA) and knows what can be done to solve this, I and my father would greatly appreciate the help. Thanks in advance. Edit: Additional info: I'm using the PrusaSlicer files from the linked page. Edit2: The printer is Prusa Mk4.
So I was attempting to install [kevinakasam's](https://kevinakasam.com/lets-build-the-plates-mgn/) belt mod and I'm fairly sure I stripped the thread that holds the M4 screw in the outer right side of the X axis profile (the side without the extruder attached to the tensioner). How screwed am I? Could I get away with trying Loctite red? [Pics for reference](https://imgur.com/a/YwSiLdy)! Edit: Thanks a ton everyone, I'll keep you all up to date when I try to finish the project this weekend!
I've been playing some gyroscope based racing games on my phone and thought it would be cool to have a physical steering wheel to hold. Since I already have a magsafe ring stuck to the back of my OnePlus Open I designed it to use magnets. Functionally it makes the games way easier to play since you can really precisely tilt the phone. You can even steer one-handed pretty easily too The magnets I used are a little weak so I'll be replacing that with another stronger magnet ring I have Designed in fusion 360, printed in pla+ on K1max
I'm thinking about buying a 3D printer for creating cosplay props like helmets and armor pieces (only once I figure things out, I'll start small of course) among other things and since there is a sale on the Ender 3 V3 series and they seem to be well received I figured that it would make sense to buy one. Having done some research, it seems like the regular V3 with it's 220x220x250mm build volume is too small for what I'm planning to do. Though splitting some parts will of course still be required, from what I could gather the V3 Plus better matches the recommended build volume having one of 300x300x330mm. The sale puts it at about the original price of the regular V3 which works for my budget. I'd love to hear some thoughts on this, since my knowledge is limited as well as theoretical and the quality of internet sources varies quite heavily.
Edit: Thanks to everyone for the help! Just an update. Thanks to @nate3d and @IMALlama comments below I calibrated the e-steps that were very under and it improved a lot. I left the filament on the dryer for 8 hours and tested again with a 20mm /s speed and 220 C print temp and it was better (picture below) Just to answer you all saying it's a clog or a hot end problem, it's not, the whole hot end, includong nozzle, heat block and everything else, even the PTFE tube are all brand new and I checked before. This is still the best I could achieve and It took 3 hours to print this benchy lol  ‐-------- Hi everyone, I'm once again asking for your help lol Since I’ve tried to print with wood I totally wrecked my printer so I changed the hot end and am trying to set it all up again. Since my printer already came built and working I don’t have much experience with things like this so if you could help me I would be very thankful What do I need to twerk to make it print better again? I’m using Cura slicer and trying to print a benchy with the settings below: Nozzle: 0.4 Layer: 0.2 Printing temp: 220 (it wont print with lower temp) Speed: 60 Retraction distance: 7 Retraction speed: 70 Edit: PLA
Was having clogging issues so I thought I'd replace and get the mythically good capricorn tubes. This is a good sign that I needed to.
I need to print a discontinued part for my car, I have an .stl file for the part, I just don't have a 3D printer. It's a speaker mount. What online print service have you used that you can recommend? Thank you! Edit: located in the US.
3DPrinting
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