SplitMechKeyboards
collection by u/lurkzone: Corne v3 wired with rgb - first foray into splits (DSA) Sofle v2 wired - I thought I needed more keys (Susuwatari MT3) Corne wireless ZMK - wire free! (XDA) Cygnus wireless 2.4ghz - keywell wireless goodness with the quick remap of Vial (bleached MT3)
Nice!Nano and ZMK firmware FAQ has been updated If you're new to ZMK firmware, nice!nano controller, supermini nrf52840 controller and nice!view screen please check the FAQ with a ton of detailed information. Hope it helps someone ! https://kriscables.com/nicenano-faq/
 - black M5 screws and bolts + black M2 screws - black tented acrylic plates + kriscables logo cutout + battery cutout - Black Switch plate foam + Base plate foam - Handwired On/Off switch - 1000mAh li-po battery - nice!views - Gateron Yellow Milky Top switches - DSA Royal Navy R2 keycaps
 
   Little shenanigans on my Lily58 Pro I know it doesn't looks fancy, nor clean, but there is no good option for that in the conditions i wanted, unfortunately, having that big ass 1000mAh battery. I could make it look more clean with the price of using much longer standoffs, having the battery between the PCB and base plate, making the overall height of the keyboard higher about 6mm, which i wanted to avoid that at all cost. So i had to sacrifice the fanciness for practicality, cutting out the acrylic base to accommodate the 1000mAh battery. I don't see at the moment a better way, but if someone do have suggestions i am happy to hear them
 Lily58 Pro split Stacked Matte Frosted Acrylic Case (no top screws) Handwired RGB underglow strip + Rotary Switch Plate Foam Gat Silent Red MT3 Dev/Tty Keycaps https://kriscables.com/lily58
 https://kriscables.com/product/foam-for-corne-choc/
 
https://kriscables.com/ferris-sweep/
 https://kriscables.com/cantor/
https://github.com/dlip/tamatama
 Lily58 Pro (choc) vs Ferris Sweep (mx)
 
 
Hey all, building a corne chocolate with Kailh switches. I ordered SK6812Mini-E RGBs. The issue is that to bottom mount the LEDs it looks as though the ground tab (shorter tapered with notch) is in the wrong corner. It would work if I were mounting them on top, but there is no room for the LED. I'm assuming that I need new LEDs to mount from the bottom. The PCB is Chocolate v2.1. I am looking to see if anyone can verify that the solder tab on the pcb with the little white box around it needs to match the tapered tab on the LED or the ground pin.
"It was my first time building a keyboard and soldering :), I was stressed and worried but everything turned out ok. First pic is the build the other are the layers, I now it still needs optimization but for now I will have it like this, I love the fact that is this small and split. For anyone in doubt of building their first keyboard due to soldering, just do it, it’s easier then it seems, just remember to use flux 😂😂, it will not be perfect but it will work!"
"Bottom right (blue) is a Corne. This one is currently using lubed Oreo switches and wearing GMK Solarized Dark keycaps. This was my 2nd split keyboard and was ordered from keyhive. Bottom left (grey) ir a Sofle. This was my first split. It currently has Gateron CJ swithes and MT3 Susuwatari keycaps from drop. Bought this one from keyhive as well. Middle left (black) is a Temper. I actually built it today as my first wireless build. It has choc sunset switches from lowprokb and KLP Lame keycaps. I linked both in another comment. Sourced my own parts for this one. Middle right is a Cantor remix. It was my first choc keyboard; it currently has choc pro red switches. It's now got no keycaps because it's getting replaced by the Temper as my workhorse keyboard. Otherwise, it's a no-frills keyboard, but great for using Miryoku for a layout and cheap to build. I also sourced my own parts here. Top left is an Eternal Keypad. Built this for gaming recently but am still yet to use it. Basically, ergo split boards are not great for gaming so I would now use that instead. Top right is a BM43 (iirc). I built this one a long time ago to try 40% keyboards but didn't quite stick with it. I ordered this one from drop. Something particular about it is that I tried my hand at making it hot-swap with mill-max sockets, as the PCB is not meant to use the (now) more common Kailh sockets. I must say it was a pain making that work. Currently has a mishmash of switches I had lying around and GMK Pulse Mitolet keycaps. I don't really use it anymore. In order, (from the keyboards in the picture), it went: BM43 > Sofle > Corne > Cantor Remix > Eternall Keypad > Temper. Most of these keyboards were a first for x or y thing for me, but really now I build keyboards much like I build legos; just for fun. Edit: I've owned other keyboards not pictured like: Ducky One-2 (still kicking around) Nym96 (gifted) Preonic (Died on me and returned it to drop for a refund) Cantor (regular, decided not to keep it and sold)"
PLA print, Createkeebs Stamp keycap set
https://kriscables.com/product/lily58-pro-acrylic-tenting-case-kit/
 https://kriscables.com/chocofi/
https://kriscables.com/corne-choc
more info about SuperMini nRF52840 here: https://kriscables.com/supermini-nrf52840/
have been training my muscle memory with this tool https://www.typingclub.com/
This looks very interesting
SplitMechKeyboards
!splitmechkeyboards@lemmy.worldSplit Ergonomical and Mechanical Keyboards sharing community
Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/SplitMechKeyboards/
Discord https://discord.gg/RSEhT3dqTM