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I've been going to the Lower Hutt Riverbank market for some time but found out it wasn't much cheaper than PnS and quality was also lower. Also tried some veg shops but prices were similar. We buy meat online, which is wild meat, and thus better for the environment: https://www.premiumgame.co.nz/
We do go to Gilmours for things like frozen fruit / veggies and nuts. It's not cheaper for everything though.
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Thanks again for all the help. I bought the USB switch and works like a charm! Only thing that doesn't work is host charging of the laptop, the docking station was charging the laptop as well when connected directly, so need another cable to charge that.
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Yes exactly like that! Yeah my concern was that as well that USBA doesn't support video. BUT, the docking station has a USB-C cable with a separate USB-C to A adapter, AND it works like a charm when plugged into my desktop via USBA. Perhaps the USBA standard has evolved.
So I'll just plug the docking station as a USB device in the USB switch similar to how you'd plug in a keyboard.
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As pictures are easier, I've quickly drawn my plan.
I emailed Targus as well and they said it would work. They did say the host charging will stop working, ie have to charge the laptop separately. That's fine.
The problem with a KVM I believe is that my laptop only has a single USB out, and thus not support for 2 monitors; this is what the docking station enables me to do. There are KVM's with docking station enabled, but couldn't find them.
All very complicated to be honest! I was surprised my docking station works out of the box with my desktop.
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Hi mate, thanks for your extensive answer. It is slightly different.
Currently, my monitors and keyboard and webcam are connected all to the docking station. From the docking station there's one usb cable to the host, ie the laptop OR the desktop. So the desktop uses the docking station as well.
So right now to swap between desktop and laptop I have to swap the host USB cable from the docking station which is annoying.
Therefore, my plan is to plug that cable into the USB switch only. Then, a cable from the USB switch to the laptop and another one to the desktop. Then I can switch between desktop and laptop via the USB switch.
I'm on mobile now so can't do a drawing.
Perhaps I could have done it with a kvm as well but the docking station was recommended by my work.
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By changing the input on the USB switch. So usb from pc to switch. Usb from laptop to switch. Usb from switch to docking station. Hdmi, keyboard, mouse, camera from docking station. Pbtech has confirmed this will work.
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I’m fairly sure it won’t let you switch which computer “sees” your dock.
Just curious why you think it won't work? I've just asked PBTech as well, and they said it should work like I'm planning to.
I can use your setup as well, but that just means more cables to my monitors, plus changing inputs on my monitors is annoying. I'd like to have one button to press to switch between PC and notebook.
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Thanks. I checked Tessmart and they sell KVM+ Docking in one. That will work, but I believe is unnecessary.
In my case, I believe I only need a USB KVM switch as I already have a docking station.
So my plan was to have a USB KVM, with one USB device connected: the docking station. Then, from the USB KVM there's one USB cable to my laptop, and one to my PC. All peripherals (monitor/keyboard/mouse) are connected to the docking station.
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Right now it all works by just swapping the usb cable from the docking station to the PC and vice versa. Monitors, keyboard, mouse are all connected to the docking station; the PC uses it as well. So a USB switch seems the easiest.
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My plan is to only connect the docking station to the USB switch. The docking station handles keyboard/video/mouse. Not sure if that's even supported :D
I've got a laptop and a PC. I've connected my monitors, keyboard, camera, etc to this [docking station](https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/NBDTAR78684/Targus-DOCK190-USB-C--USB-30-Dual-4K-DisplayLink-D) This works like a charm from both my laptop as well as my PC. However, switching between the two is annoying as it involves unplugging & plugging in. Is there a USB switch I can connect the docking station to, and then a cable each to my PC and Desktop? The docking station has host charging, so it charges my laptop, so I guess the USB switch needs to be powered, or not? I saw [this one](https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/MPPUGR30768/UGREEN-30768-2-In-4-Out-USB-30-Sharing-Switch-Box) which has good reviews.
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AC Lite. It doesn't need controller, it's standalone. I configure it via the mobile app.
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It's a standalone AP. No controller. Two different SSIDs.
I've had it running now for 2 hours and of course now it works. The only change since last time is that I've reset the AP and did a firmware upgrade. Perhaps that fixed it...
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There's only a single DHCP server, a Pihole, which also serves as DNS. Switch B is a cheaper switch, so that may be the culprit. I use it for heavy downloading from my Xbox and that is never a big issue. Speeds fluctuate from 100 to 900mbps (my max) but that's not necessarily a switch problem.
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Yep, thanks for checking, there's only 1 DHCP server on my network. I've just moved it back to behind switch B and will do more investigation when the problem occurs again.
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I've just moved it back to behind switch B, will do testing as you suggest.
The switch doesn't have POE, the Unifi AP does use POE via its own POE injector.
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Thanks. I've recently reset it, it has its own IP via DHCP. I've just moved it back to behind switch B, will do testing as you suggest.
/edit: did a firmware upgrade of the AP and can't replicate it anymore. Thanks all for the input, much appreciated. In case it happens again I will use your tips. I have a very weird issue. I've got a relatively simple network setup: - router connected to ONT (Fibre) - 10 port switch A connected to router, cables to various places in house - 4 port switch B connected to switch A, with TV & Xbox connected - Unify WiFi AP connected to switch A, both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz networks That works well. However, when I connect the WiFi AP to switch B I'm having issues. Initially it all works well, but after ~30 minutes the wifi stops working; I can no longer ping e.g. the router. It only happens to one of the WiFi networks (2.4Ghz or 5Ghz), not both. A reboot of the AP solves it again, but then it stops working after ~30 minutes. Both switch A and B are 1Ghz switches, zero issues with other devices. Any idea what I can try?
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Yep just placed a couple! Thanks.
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I placed a pixel. Oh yeah!
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OK I'm in. Never done this before. Will have a look!
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I tried, got the code, then a 400 bad request.
I'm struggling to find the easiest solution to connect a set of active speakers that have BT/Optical (Toslink)/Coax. I currently use a tablet to stream Deezer via BT, but I want to be able to use them in Music Assistant. I tried Bubblepnp on the tablet, but it's too slow for that, it wasn't reliable. I don't want to spend 100s of dollars on e.g. Sonos stuff. I see Squeezelite as a good option, but I'm unsure how to connect an SPDIF speaker. The docs say you can connect to one of the pins. Do I just cut the plug of an SPDIF cable and then connect to it? I don't have a 3D printer, ideally I want a box around it. Ideally there's an out-of-the-box solution. Any tips or help appreciated.
In our two bathrooms we have a switch panel with 4 switches: one for a light, 2 for heat lamps, and 1 for a fan extractor. As we tend to forget the fan extractor I want to make this smart. Something like  It has to work well with Home Assistant. WiFi is fine, Zigbee would probably be better. Should not have a cloud dependency, I can't sell this stuff to my SO saying that she can't turn on the lights if the internet is down. I've flashed Tuya based switches and RF emitters with ESPHome using LibreTiny. As it's obviously 220v I'd like to avoid Aliexpress stuff. Probably also needs a good IP rating as it's in the bathroom. Any tips?
I've got a couple of Zigbee plugs, all work well, except one I use for the washing machine. It randomly turns off. When I check the history in HA, it just says that it turns off, no source. My guess is that it trips, ie temporarily exceeds 10A. The plugs are rated 10A from Aliexpress.
Edit2: Thanks all for your responses! I have checked the logs, https://lemmy.nz/comment/6192604, and based on that removed tracker-miner-fs as it's a search/index tool which I don't need. No idea why it took over all memory. I'll also get a WiFi Smartplug as a kill switch. Hopefully that solves it. Thanks again heaps! ---- I've got a HP ProDesk G3 which I'm using as home server, I've installed Ubuntu on it. Earlier this week the services I host on it stopped (Immich & Frigate). I tried to SSH, but it just hung after asking for a password. I could ping it, but it was just unresponsive. I had to force reboot it manually. This is fine, but I'm not always at home. The chip has Intel vPro as far as I know, which could be an option, but I have no idea how this works. The documentation on the Intel site seems focused on enterprises. I tried to connect with RealVNC which does not work, so I think I've got to install/configure something on the server first. I also asked Bing Chat but it came up with non existing packages & commands. Welcome your thoughts! /edit: I just found this, which seems to be exactly what I need: https://manpages.ubuntu.com/manpages/focal/en/man7/amt-howto.7.html
I've got a QNAP NAS and two Linux servers. Whenever the power goes down, the UPS kicks in and shut downs the NAS and the Linux servers, all good. The servers + NAS are automatically started when the power comes back on line using WOL. All good. The problem is that I have apps running using Docker which heavily rely on connections to the NAS. As the Linux servers boot quicker than the NAS, the mount points are not mounted, and thus everything falls apart. Even when I manually re-mount, it's not propagated to the Docker instances. All mount points use NFS. Currently, I just reboot the Linux servers manually, and then all works well. Probably easiest would be to run a cron job to check the mounts every x minutes, and if they are not mounted, then just reboot. The only issue is that this may cause an infinite loop of reboots if e.g. the NAS has been turned off. I could also install a monitoring solution, but I've seen so many options that I'm not sure which one to do. If it's easier with a monitoring solution, I'd like the simplest one.
See [this comment](https://www.reddit.com/r/electricvehicles/comments/16vskt5/comment/k2tr2px/?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) I found [this site](https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/vinLookup), but it's US based, so unsure if it will help.
About 7 years ago I installed a bunch of Mitre10 / Bunnings smoke detectors which seem to work well, hardly false alarms, 9v batteries last ~2-3 years I've now found out they are ionization alarms and they are no longer recommended. Also, Fire NZ recommends fire alarms with 10 years batteries built in. I checked both Bunnings & Mitre10 and most of them get crappy reviews. On Reddit I saw that Cavius is recommended a lot, but they also get bad reviews on Noel Leeming that they stop working after <5 years. However, they have a 10 year warranty, so I guess in such cases I would get a new one? They cost ~$50 at NL, and I know not to always trust their pricing, is there a better/cheaper shop to buy them? Or should I buy a different brand? I also see good reviews about Nest Protect. A lot more expensive, but I like that I can connect them to Home Assistant. However, I can't seem to find them available in NZ. Some other post suggested [these from Aliexpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000136474999.html?srcSns=sns_Copy&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social_params=20376218422&aff_fcid=85d67f7d478f46fd9d27df898db1b33e-1705985083598-00625-_mt8Fx5k&tt=MG&aff_fsk=_mt8Fx5k&aff_platform=default&sk=_mt8Fx5k&aff_trace_key=85d67f7d478f46fd9d27df898db1b33e-1705985083598-00625-_mt8Fx5k&shareId=20376218422&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal_id=2fbdca03b85d48c1ad2a5075777ea1f6&afSmartRedirect=y) A bit reluctant to get smoke detectors from Ali though. I know 220v connected ones are better, but as we'll be selling the place most likely within <10 years, not worth the extra $$.
As per title, focusing on Now feels very similar to mindful meditation where you focus on current sensations to stay in the now. Is there a difference I'm missing?
Currently I've got a RPi4 without Coral, running Frigate with 2 cams, HA, Paperless, Photoview and Qbittorrent. This works well but maxes out the RPi4. As I want to add Immich and more cams, I have to upgrade. Budget allows for either a USB Coral with the existing RPi4 or buy a secondhand HP Prodesk 600 g4 with Intel 8th gen. According to Frigate I can use Openvino for object detection. Otherwise, I could add a Coral mini pcie, with a mini pcie to pcie adapter. But that stretches the budget. Besides frigate the HP should be able to run the rest. Any thoughts?
I'd like to buy an ex company PC to serve as home server, as an upgrade for my raspberry pi. It should run some selfhosted services like Frigate and Immich, and perhaps Jellyfin. I was thinking to buy an 9th gen Intel or later ex company PC. It should be energy efficient as well. I tried looking at Trademe but you can't filter on CPU generation. I could search on the exact Intel cpu number but that seems too restrictive. Pbtech is too expensive what I saw. I haven't tried Marketplace but guess that's the same. Some reddit post suggested Dell Optiplex, but no idea how their type numbering works. Any tips?
I never played the original, but as it's on Gamepass via EA play decided to give it a go. It got me hooked immediately and found it hard to put down. Never got boring. It was too difficult for me on normal, easy was better for me. Hopefully they will remake 2 and 3 as well. I enjoy good graphics so not sure I enjoy the originals.
Kia ora! My wife and I were born in The Netherlands. Ten years ago we decided to try living in New Zealand for two years. At that time we had a 1 yo, we now have two kids. It felt really good so we decided to stay longer. Fast forward, here we are, ten years later. The pink clouds are definitely gone, but we've learned to appreciate NZ. Obviously it's a beautiful country and it's not densely populated. The Netherlands is 6 times smaller with 4 times more people. People in NZ are generally friendly and keen to help. Also, people have respect for service people like police, firemen, train conductors, etc. In the NL it happens daily that they are spat on, verbally abused, or even injured. Kids in NL more and more bring knives to school. People randomly throw rocks, bombs, eg at fireman, police, and ambulance people. NY eve in NL counted more than 200 arrests and counting. People were injured or killed because of fireworks. In every major city police was bombarded with illegal fireworks, multiple officers hurt with hearing damage. Buildings were set on fire, firemen came, were bombarded with fireworks as well. Talking to other friends in Europe it's not getting better in other countries. Writing this makes me emotional. Why can't we treat other people like we want to be treated? NZ isn't perfect, there is crime here of course, but it definitely seems better than the rest of the world at the moment. I love New Zealand. I've become a proud citizen 2 years ago and definitely now call this home. The Netherlands is now just a place where my family lives and where I can celebrate holidays. Thanks for reading and I want to wish you all an awesome 2024. Stay strong.
Happy New Year everyone. Hope you all have a good 2024.
I'm interested to read about discoveries regarding health, food and longevity as I'm planning to stick around as long as possible. I already found Stanfords publications on longevity. Just wondering if you have any other reading tips? Ideally with an Rss feed. I'm only interested in information backed by science as much as possible.
I've got a Sureflap cat flap operated by 4 AA batteries. It doesn't work well on rechargeables, it seems to need 1.5v batteries. I'm thinking to hardwire it with battery backup (like a Ups). I'm not very experienced in electronics, are there any off the shelf products I could use? I'm assuming the flap runs at 6v and that I can just attach two cables, one to plus, one to min. If there are no off the shelve products, any recommendations for what I should buy?
We've got contents insurance with AA and from next year we'll be paying 33% more. We have had 2 claims for a different policy this year, one at fault, one not, and they said it wouldn't impact our premiums. Is this common for everyone? I understand it goes up because of all the floods, but 33% is very significant.
Our car is insured comprehensive, but I'm wondering from what amount it would make sense to claim? AA no longer has a no claims bonus, but obviously premiums can go up if you claim. We have some cosmetic damage which we caused ourselves, so would mean we'd pay our excess. Would it be wise to discuss with our insurer AA? Advice welcome, thanks.