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You forgot to include alcohol!
Seriously, though, it just appears to me that it wouldn't take much to turn that situation into a tragedy but I don't know a darn thing about sailing. I went one a few charity motorcycle rides and they felt the same: too many people who's abilities are unknown and mostly likely more than a few who were drinking.
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Beautiful, but the first thing to come to mind: "That looks like an accident waiting to happen"
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Using that logic, can we also get rid of Stroll?
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An all time classic!
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Very cool. I did a Dagon Alley book book a few years ago and really enjoyed getting a model done in ten or so hours versus the eternity it takes me to assemble and paint a plastic kit.
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Are you saying that the rules did not strictly forbid this system prior to Miami and the underlined text was added to the regulations to eliminate the loophole RBR was using to help win?
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I'm pretty sure I helped my Mom put this one together about 50 years ago.
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I think you want the screwdriver to seat as far down as possible so I would recommend you dig out the glue
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The US missed out on both the Robertson screw head and the metric system!
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If it is filled with glue then I would try scraping it out with the tip of a utility or xacto knife
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Strong down force with the appropriate screwdriver (looks like it started out as a Phillips head) while turning the driver with a wrench. You need a square shaft in your screwdriver or clamp with vice grips.
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Same, strong down force, but use a square driver ( Robertson screw). This can also be accompanied with a wrench.
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Drill it out. This is pretty much the last resort as you will use a drill bit about the same size as the threads which will pretty much take the head of the screw off as you drill into the threads. The threads probably won't come out but you will at least be able to open the case. I have had very little luck with screw extractors and they probably don't come that small.
Strong down force is the main thing I have found to work when breaking loose pesky screws. Pushing down hard enough to prevent the bit from skipping to the next slot
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I should have mentioned:
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This is the first time I separated all the pieces by color/region before assembly and I was amazed at how much faster it went together.
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Instead of doing the edges first I started at the center (lighthouse) and followed with the trees and sky. This allowed me to keep the top of the puzzle closer to me and push it away as I worked my way down to the sea. I found this reduced the time I usually spent standing, hunched over the puzzle. I am amazed it took me 40 years of jigsaws to figure this out.
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The sea and rocks took way longer than I thought. It was brutal.
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Yeah, so what do I do now? Maybe I will stick a note on the cover before sending it back to Goodwill
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Yes! You Nailed it!!
Kind of an ELI5, but I tune a radion into a specific frequency to listen to a station. If that frequency is constantly being modulated (changed), how is the radio not going in and out of tune? I expect it is finding a way to measure multiple frequencies around the tuned station and decodes the data from it's deviation from the tuned frequency?
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So for common folk like myself, what do I need to do? I used Authy for a few sites. Can a bad actor pretending to be me now get access to those sites?
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They already have, no?
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There has always been a pretty large gap between Perez and Max in terms of performance. It's been speculated that it is more a matter of the competition's cars getting faster than Perez's performance declining. They have found a way to catch up with Red Bull car and only Max's skill is keeping them ahead.
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Perez failed to make it past the first qualifying round, finishing 16th, while his teammate, Max, grabbed the number two spot for tomorrow's race.
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Cool ceiling tile
Anyone have any advice regarding my design? I'm figuring on playing older titles mostly so I think the 6 action buttons are more than enough to play on. That will allow me to map an A, B, X, Y, L1, L2 for console games. On the top row I can place a Select (player), Start (coin) as well as a hotkey button. That leaves me with an extra button at the top if anyone can think of what I can use it for. Also, I'm planning on one button on either side for a poor man's pinball machine. I figured I'd ask here before mocking it up in case I missed anything.
I'm trying to understand what's happening in this circuit: I------------------T1 (+333V) I I I R1(10K) (pos) I 1000V I------------gnd (0V) (neg) I I R2(10K) I I I IT2(-333V) I I I R3(10K) I I I-----------------IT3 (-666.7V) I am learning basic DC theory from reading and sometimes I come across something I'd like to ask a question about, so: 1. In the above circuit, without the ground, the voltage across all components would begin at 10V and finish at 0V. By adding a ground, I'm basically saying "here is 0V" and everything gets redefined in reference to that point and I end up with a 10 volt circuit with +3.33 as it's highest voltage and -6.667 as it's lowest. 2. The electrons could care less, they still flow from the anode to the cathode of the battery under normal conditions, going from the highest potential to the lowest. 3. This example was only used to demonstrate voltage dividers. It revolved around worker protection present in aluminum processing. Each machine is in series and mobile grounds are used nearest the machine a worker is using. I assume that this allows the worker to have the least exposure to electrical shock as they are also at ground potential? I actually think working though these questions has cleared everything up, but please, comment on anything I got wrong. Also, sorry about the crappy drawing, the autowrap in this editor really made things tough to format Thanks!